I make most of my larger pots using a similar method; I learned it from Clary Illian almost 20 years ago. But a couple years ago I started having problems with the seam between the two parts cracking open during glaze firing, despite every variable I could think of remaining the same -- clay, throwing technique, glazes, firing.
I've tried a bunch of variations, like not scoring the join, combining the parts when stiffer or wetter, etc, but it still happens about half the time. Pretty baffling!
But the flange you showed here seems like it might solve my problem -- a lot lot the time, the seam crack is only on the inside, which makes me think it's due to a lack of compression and enough clay there on each part to weld the two together.
In any case, thanks for the idea! Yet another reason I'm glad you're blogging again.
Hey Scott, Cool. Let me know how it goes. I like this method with the flange on the ring. I used to just add a doughnut but this seems like I get the top started and more in place.
I have been having a problem with my handles pulling away on these two part pitchers. I am guessing it's b/c the bottom has dried out a good bit and by the time the top gets ready for the handle maybe things aren't synched up right. Maybe controlled drying after adding the top will help me . Or getting the handle on sooner. They are pulling away at the top.
I'll let you know. Heck, if it actually solves the problem, I'll probably do a three-part blog post about it! My next throwing session is probably still a ways off, but this will be on the agenda.
Yeah, I can imagine the handle spanning the two parts could be a problem. I usually do this method for vases or larger jars; I've done it with pitchers at some point, but not in a long time.
I agree about controlled drying; seems like the more time the two parts have to synch up and get to know each other before adding the handle the better. But if you're pulling the handles from the top (I assume you make the first attachment there, then pull, right?), I would have thought the bottom handle attachment would be the one to pull away if the shrinkage was uneven after that, or there was any torquing from the two parts being thrown separately. Do you score the top handle join?
I make most of my larger pots using a similar method; I learned it from Clary Illian almost 20 years ago. But a couple years ago I started having problems with the seam between the two parts cracking open during glaze firing, despite every variable I could think of remaining the same -- clay, throwing technique, glazes, firing.
ReplyDeleteI've tried a bunch of variations, like not scoring the join, combining the parts when stiffer or wetter, etc, but it still happens about half the time. Pretty baffling!
But the flange you showed here seems like it might solve my problem -- a lot lot the time, the seam crack is only on the inside, which makes me think it's due to a lack of compression and enough clay there on each part to weld the two together.
In any case, thanks for the idea! Yet another reason I'm glad you're blogging again.
Hey Scott, Cool. Let me know how it goes. I like this method with the flange on the ring. I used to just add a doughnut but this seems like I get the top started and more in place.
ReplyDeleteI have been having a problem with my handles pulling away on these two part pitchers. I am guessing it's b/c the bottom has dried out a good bit and by the time the top gets ready for the handle maybe things aren't synched up right. Maybe controlled drying after adding the top will help me . Or getting the handle on sooner. They are pulling away at the top.
I'll let you know. Heck, if it actually solves the problem, I'll probably do a three-part blog post about it! My next throwing session is probably still a ways off, but this will be on the agenda.
ReplyDeleteYeah, I can imagine the handle spanning the two parts could be a problem. I usually do this method for vases or larger jars; I've done it with pitchers at some point, but not in a long time.
I agree about controlled drying; seems like the more time the two parts have to synch up and get to know each other before adding the handle the better. But if you're pulling the handles from the top (I assume you make the first attachment there, then pull, right?), I would have thought the bottom handle attachment would be the one to pull away if the shrinkage was uneven after that, or there was any torquing from the two parts being thrown separately. Do you score the top handle join?